Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Wispweave Hexagon


Here is another pattern using the same center as the Wispweave Square but made into a hexagon instead!  There are 12 rounds and the finished size measures about 4" across the flat sides and 6" from the points.  I would like to make more of these and try joining them together at the corners for a runner or tablecloth!  The thread I used is Scheepjes Maxi Sugar Rush cotton thread in the colors Soft Rosa, Tropic, and English Tea for the border.



This pattern has 12 rounds and measures 4" across the flat sides and 6" from the points.  
Pattern is written using U.S. Terminology.
size 10 thread in 2 colors-
color 1- 35-40 yards 
color 2- 5 yards
1.75 mm hook
yarn needle
scissors
Stitch Abbreviations

ch- chain
dc- double crochet
hdc- half double crochet
FPdc- front post double crochet
FPsc- front post single crochet
FPtr- front post treble crochet
sc- single crochet
st(s)- stitch(es)
yo- yarn over

Special Stitches

FPtr cluster-  yo twice, insert from front to back around dc indicated, yo and pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, repeat from ★ once more, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

FPdc decrease- [yo, insert hook from front to back around next FPdc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

picot- ch 3, slip st in last FPsc made.

small picot- ch 2, sl st in second ch from hook.

large picot- ch 3, sl st in third ch from hook.

[ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated, or work enclosed instructions in the stitch or space indicated.


★ - repeat the following instructions the amount of times indicated.

( ) - Enclose additional information and the number of stitches at the end of a round.

Rounds 1-5 of this pattern are the same for the Wispweave doily and a photo tutorial for the stitches FPtr cluster, FPdc, and FPdc decrease is available here- https://www.draiguna.com/2018/05/wispweave.html

With color 1 ch 4, sl st in fourth ch to make a ring.

Round 1- ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout), 11 dc in ring, slip st to third ch of first dc, mark first dc for stitch placement on Round 3.
(12 dc)

Round 2- ch 3, dc in same st, [2 dc in next dc] around, slip st to third ch of first dc.
(24 dc)

Round 3- ch 3, FPtr cluster around marked dc on Round 1, dc in next dc on Round 2, [ch 3, dc in next dc on Round 2, FPtr cluster around next dc on Round 1, dc in next dc on Round 2] around, ch 1, hdc in third ch of first dc to make last ch-3 space.
(24 dc, 12 FPtr clusters, 12 ch-3 spaces)

Round 4
- ch 1, sc in same space, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPtr cluster, ★ sc in next ch-3 space, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPtr cluster, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc.
(12 sc, 24 FPdc, 12 ch-3 spaces)

Round 5- slip st in next FPdc and in next ch-3 space, ch 3, 4 dc in same space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, [5 dc in next ch-3 space, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc] around, slip st to third ch of first dc.
(60 dc, 12 FPdc decreases)

Round 6- slip st in next dc, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 2 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, ★ sc in each of next 3 dc, [FPdc, ch 3, FPdc] around next FPdc decrease, skip next dc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc.
(36 sc, 24 FPdc, 12 ch-3 spaces)

Round 7
- slip st in next sc, ch 1, sc in same st, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, ★ sc in next sc, FPdc around next FPdc, [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] in next ch-3 space, FPdc around next FPdc, skip next sc, repeat from ★ around, slip st to first sc.
(60 sc, 24 FPdc, 12 ch-2 spaces)

Round 8
- slip st in next FPdc, slip st in next 2 sc and into next ch-2 space, ch 1, sc in same space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3, [sc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, FPdc decrease around next 2 FPdc, ch 3] around, slip st to first sc.
(12 sc, 24 ch-3 spaces, 12 FPdc decreases)


Round 9- ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 space), dc in same st, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, ★ [dc, ch 2] twice in next sc, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next ch-3 space, ch 1, FPsc around next FPdc decrease, picot, ch 1, sc in next ch-3 space, ch 2, repeat from ★ around, slip st to third ch of first dc.  
(12 dc, 18 ch-2 spaces, 42 sc, 24 ch-1 spaces, 12 FPsc, 12 picots)

Round 10- slip st into next ch-2 space, ch 3, [dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in same space, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ★ [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in next ch-2 space, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 5, skip next 2 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, ch 5, 2 dc in next ch-2 space, repeat from ★ around, slip st to third ch of first dc.
(48 dc, 6 ch-2 spaces, 12 ch-5 spaces, 18 sc)

Round 11- ch 3, dc in next dc, [2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc] in next ch-2 space, dc in each of next 4 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next sc, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, ★ dc in each of next 4 dc, [2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc] in next ch-2 space, dc in each of next 4 dc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, skip next sc, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next ch-5 space, repeat from ★ around, dc in each of next 2 dc, slip st to third ch of first dc, fasten off color 1.
(132 dc, 6 ch-3 spaces, 6 sc)

Round 12All sc stitches in this round are worked in the back loop only, the slip stitches are made using both loops.  Join color 2 in same st on Round 11, ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next dc, small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in next ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 9 dc, slip st in next sc, ★ sc in each of next 9 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 2 dc, sc in first ch of next ch-3 space, in next ch work- [sc, small picot, sc, large picot, sc, small picot, sc], sc in next ch, sc in each of next 2 dc, small picot, sc in each of next 9 dc, slip st in next sc, repeat from ★ around, sc in each of next 7 dc, slip st to first sc, fasten off and weave in ends.
(168 sc, 24 small picots, 6 large picots)





Blocking and Finishing

It is optional but recommended to block your finished piece. Fill a bowl with water and add some liquid starch if you prefer the motif to be lightly stiffened. Soak and gently press out any excess liquid, being careful not to pull or twist on the stitches. Lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin the motif working from the center out to the edges. Allow to dry completely before removing the pins.






This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna. Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site. You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. This includes making charts or graphs of the pattern. Thank you!

© 2019 Draiguna


Related Patterns

Wispweave Square                         Wispweave Triangle

7 comments:

  1. Just made a baby one, so beautiful, perfect as a snowflake style Christmas decoration. Turned out 3" max with #60 thread and 1mm hook. Thanks so much for your amazing patterns. (Ravelry people feel free to view in my projects my username is momackenzie)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi, I am working on this doily. Would like to know if the explanation given for the FPDC Decrease is accurate. It says,
    [yo, insert hook from front to back around next FPdc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
    We start with one loop on the hook, YO makes it two, pulling up a loop around one of the posts makes it 3. If we do the YO and pull through 2 loops twice, that makes it a FPDC, not a decrease. To make it a decrease, after the 1st 2 loop pull, I will need to YO, Front to Back,pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops. This will leave me with 3 loops on the hook. FPDC Decrease is done by pulling through all 3 remaining loops on the hook.
    Please correct me if I am wrong.
    Also, I am trying to work with a #20 thread. This is causing the doily to fold inwards into a bowl shape at Round 5. What am I doing wrong?
    Looking forward to your advice.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi :)

      Yes, the instructions for making a FPdc decrease are correct. It states to "insert hook from front to back around next FPdc", so you should be working around the first FPdc and then repeat that section around the next FPdc instead of the same FPdc. I might add in "uses next 2 FPdc" just so it's less confusing. It's normal for your work to curl at Round 5 because of the dc stitches, and it should flatten out on it's own. You could also try going up a hook size to see if that helps.
      I hope this helps you out and just let me know if you have any more questions!

      Kind regards,
      Julia

      Delete
  3. 'FPDC decrease' is just like 'Dc2tog' where you do two DC but convert them into one. The only difference is for dc2tog you go 'into' the next two stitches n for 'FpDc decrease' you go 'around'

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks Julia! My question was actually regarding the TWICE mentioned outside the square bracket at the end of
    FPdc decrease- [yo, insert hook from front to back around next FPdc, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] "twice".
    Please confirm if this TWICE repeat is necessary.
    Thanks again for the tip on increasing the hook size. Shall try likewise.

    ReplyDelete
  5. lovely designs! Thank you for sharing! I cannot wait to try them all!

    ReplyDelete
  6. is there any YouTube tutorial for the pattern

    ReplyDelete