Friday, April 20, 2018

Basket of Scrubbies


This pattern includes instructions for the scrubbies and basket to store them in.  The scrubbies measure about 4 1/2".

The yarn pictured is Red Heart scrubby cotton in the colors loofa, tan, and denim and Aunt Lydias size 3 crochet thread in the color bridal white.

The baskets are made with Loops & Threads Charisma in the colors taupe, off white, and charcoal.

Scrubbies

For 1 scrubby you will need-
Red Heart Scrubby Cotton-  25-30 yards
Size 3 crochet thread- 15-20 yards
5.5 mm (I) hook
3.25 mm (D) hook
yarn needle

Basket

Bulky weight yarn- 50-75 yards
(optional) small amount of a second color for the border
10 mm (N) hook
yarn needle
3/8" ribbon
sewing needle
sewing thread
glue
Stitch Abbreviations

st(s)- stitch(es)
sl st- slip stitch
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
ws- wrong side
rs- right side

Special Stitches

cluster- ch 3, dc in third ch from hook

Pattern Notes

( ) - Contains additional information and the amount of stitches you will have at the end of a round.

[ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated, or in the stitch indicated. 

* - repeat the following instructions the amount of times indicated.

For Rounds 1-6 on the scrubby and 1-4 on the basket-
Place a stitch marker in the first or last stitch of each round to help keep track of the increases.

The basket is made using 2 strands of bulky weight yarn held together.
Circle, Make 2-

Round 1- with the scrubby cotton and 5.5 mm (I) hook ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, do not join. (6 sc)

Round 2- [2 sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (12 sc)

Round 3- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (18 sc)

Round 4
- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, do not join. (24 sc)

Round 5
- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times, do not join. (30 sc)

Round 6- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times, sl st in next sc, fasten off. (36 sc)


Border- 

Round 7- switch to the smaller 3.25 mm (D) hook and with both circles held together (ws together and rs facing out), join size 3 thread in any sc of previous round (shown in picture 1 in the photo tutorial section), ch 1, sc in same st, ch  1, [sc in next sc, ch 1] around, mark last sc made for st placement, sl st to first sc.  (36 sc, 36 ch-1 spaces)  

Round 8- ch 1, [sc, ch 3, sc] in same st, * ch 1, sk next sc, [sc, ch 3, sc] in next sc, repeat from * around, sc in first sc to make last ch-1 space.  (36 sc, 18 ch-3 spaces, 18 ch-1 spaces)

Round 9- ch 1, sl st in marked sc on round 7, working behind Round 8, ch 3 (counts as first dc), [cluster, dc] 4 times in same st, sl st in next unworked sc on Round 7, * dc in next unworked sc on Round 7, [cluster, dc] 4 times in same st, sl st in next unworked sc on Round 7, repeat from * around, sl st to third ch of first dc, fasten off and weave in ends.  (45 dc, 36 clusters, 9 sl sts)


Round 1- holding 2 strands of bulky weight yarn together and with the 10 mm (N) hook, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, do not join.

Round 2- [2 sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (12 sc)

Round 3- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (18 sc)

Round 4
- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, do not join. (24 sc)

Round 5
  • [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 5 times, ch 1, [sk next sc, sc in next sc, ch 1] 14 times.
  • sc in next space, ch 1, sc in next space, repeat from * until the basket measures about 2 1/2" or desired length.  If you are using a second color for the border fasten off the main color and join the new color with a sl st in the back loop of the next sc.
  • sl st in the back loop of next sc, * sl st in the back loop of next ch, sl st in the back loop of next sc, repeat from * around, fasten off, see photo 3 in the photo tutorial section for finishing instructions.  (29 sl sts)
To attach the ribbon on the basket-
 Thread a yarn needle with the ribbon and working from the front to the back weave in and out of the ch-1 spaces between the final round of sc.  Continue working around the basket.  When you reach the starting space cut the ribbon leaving enough to make a bow.   Tie both ends of the ribbon together into a bow.  Trim off any extra ribbon and apply a few drops of glue to each end to prevent fraying.

To secure the bow in place-  
Thread the sewing needle.  Starting on the inside of the basket behind the center of the bow pull through to the front, going through the center knot of the bow.  Then go back through the bow to the inside of the basket.  Continue to go back and forth through the middle of the bow until it feels secure.  Fasten off where you started, tie both ends together and trim off any extra thread. 



*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *
Photo Tutorials

*  1  *
Starting the border (Round 7)

Place one circle over the other circle so the backs are together (wrong sides), and fronts are facing out (right sides).

With the 3.25 mm hook and working through both circles, join the crochet thread to any sc on Round 6.  

 ch 1, sc in same st, ch  1, [sc in next sc, ch 1] around, mark last sc made for st placement, sl st to first sc.

*  2  *
Starting Round 9

ch 1 and sl  st in the marked sc on Round 7

*  3  *
Finishing the last round of the basket

One- With the end just fastened off, thread the yarn needle and insert behind the 2 bars of the first sl st from top to bottom.

Two- Pull the thread through.

Three- Insert into the center of the last sl st made and pull through to the back.

Four- Weave in the ends.

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *

The basket can also be used to store crocheting supplies or other small things!
I put some of my crochet thread and hooks in this one-

In this one I put some crochet snowflakes-


I hope that you enjoyed this pattern!  Happy crocheting! :D


This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna. Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site. You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. Thank you!

© 2018 Draiguna

Sunday, April 1, 2018

Enchanting Egg Doily




Happy Easter! :)  These egg shaped doilies are quick and easy to make using a mix of medium weight cotton yarn and size 3 crochet thread.  There are also instructions on how to decorate them with ribbon and add a loop for hanging. 

The yarn pictured is I Love This Cotton in the colors aqua and pastel.  The thread is Aunt Lydias size 3 cotton crochet thread in the colors natural and bridal white.  I made the chart for rounds 1-10 at www.stitchfiddle.com.      


This doily has 13 rounds and measures about 5 1/2" wide and 6 3/4" tall.
medium weight yarn- 30-40 yards
size 3 crochet thread- 20-25 yards
5.5 mm (I) hook
3.25 (D) hook
yarn needle
scissors

Optional materials to decorate the eggs-
1/4" ribbon
5/8" ribbon
3/4" ribbon
sewing needle
sewing thread
glue
 Stitch Abbreviations

st(s)- stitch(es)
sl st- slip stitch
ch- chain
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet

Special Stitches

cluster- ch 3, dc in third ch from hook

Pattern Notes

( ) - contains additional information and the amount stitches you will have at the end of a round.

[ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated, or in the stitch indicated.

* - repeat the following instructions the amount of times indicated.

Round 1- With medium weight yarn and and larger hook ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

Round 2- ch 1, 2 sc in same st, [2 sc in next sc] around, sl st to first sc. (12 sc)

Round 3- ch 1, 2 sc in same st, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, sl st to first sc. (18 sc)

Round 4- ch 1, sc in same st, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sl st to first sc. (24 sc)

Round 5- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 3 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sl st to first sc. (30 sc)

Round 6- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, sl st to first sc. (36 sc)

Round 7- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 3 sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, sl st to first sc. (42 sc)

Round 8- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sl st to first sc. (48 sc)

Round 9- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 5 sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, sl st to first sc. (54 sc)

Round 10- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 6 sc, [2 sc in next sc] twice, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, sl st to first sc, fasten off.  
(60 sc)

Round 11- join size 3 thread in next st, with smaller hook ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, [sc in next sc, ch 1] around, sl st to first sc. (60 sc, 60 ch-1 spaces)

Round 12- ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, sk next sc, [sc, ch 3, sc] in next sc, ch 1, repeat from * around, sc in same st as first sc, ch 3, sl st to first sc.  (60 sc, 30 ch-1 spaces, 30 ch-3 spaces)

Round 13- ch 1, working behind previous round sl st into next unworked sc on Round 11, ch 3 (counts as first dc), [cluster, dc] 4 times in same st, sl st in next unworked sc on Round 11, * dc in next sc, [cluster, dc] 4 times in same st, sl st in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of first dc, fasten off and weave in ends.  (75 sc, 60 clusters, 15 sl sts)


Chart for Rounds 1-10




Blocking


If you are going to block the doily do that first before attaching the ribbon.  It is optional but recommended to block your finished piece.  Fill a bowl with water and add some liquid starch if you prefer the doily to be lightly stiffened.  Soak the doily and gently press out any excess liquid, being careful not to pull or twist on the stitches. Lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin the doily working from the center out to the edges. Allow the doily to dry completely before removing the pins.

For the doilies pictured I wanted to lightly starch only the border.  So instead of soaking the entire doily I only dipped the edges into the bowl.      


Decorating the doily



Materials-


For the ribbon going across the doily-

Cut a piece about 5" wide so there is a little bit extra on each side.  Thread the sewing needle and lay the ribbon across the widest part of the doily, underneath the second round of the border.  Fold the edge ribbon in to prevent it from coming unraveled and begin sewing through both layers of ribbon and to the back of the doily.  Weave the needle through to the front and back a few more times in the same spot to lock the thread in place.  

Sew across the edge of the ribbon as shown in the pictures below.  At the end lock the thread in place by sewing in the same spot a few times, then trim the thread.  Repeat this for the other side of the ribbon.      

Attaching the bow-

Cut a small piece of ribbon about 6-7" long and make a bow.  Next thread the sewing needle and place the bow in the center of the doily on top of the ribbon going across.  Starting at the back of the doily, bring the needle up to the front through the center knot of the ribbon and to the back again.  Do this a few more times until the ribbon is no longer loose.  Tie both ends of the thread together and cut off any extra.

Trim the ends of the bow to the length that you want and apply a little bit of glue to each end to prevent fraying. 

Adding a loop for hanging

Cut a piece of ribbon about 5" long and place both ends together as shown in the photo below.  Fold the edges of the ribbon up and with the sewing needle, sew through all 4 layers of ribbon to make a loop.  Place it on the back of the doily  so that the edges of the ribbon are facing in.  Weave the sewing needle to the front of the doily and back through the ribbon until it is no longer loose.  Tie both ends of the thread together and trim off any extra.



I hope that you enjoyed the pattern!  Have a wonderful day! :D

This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna. Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site. You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. Thank you!
© 2018 Draiguna

Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Spring Bunny Doily

This pattern has 13 rows done in filet crochet and 3 rounds for the border.  The finished size is 4 1/4" wide and 4 1/2" tall.  

Filet crochet consists open and closed meshes to make a design.  Each group of solid mesh blocks has 3 double crochet stitches per block plus 1.  For example 1 block will have 4 dc and a group of 3 blocks will have 10 dc.  An open mesh space will have 1 dc followed by ch-2 and another dc.

Instead of double crochet I used extended double crochet stitches (edc).  It's a slightly taller stitch than double crochet which I find makes the blocks and spaces more square shaped.  Instructions on how to make it are shown in the first picture of the photo tutorial section.   Dc stitches can be used in place of the edc stitches if you prefer.  

The doilies pictured are made with Knit Picks curio cotton crochet thread in the colors natural, tea rose, ice lily, and lichen.  I made the filet crochet bunny chart at www.stitchfiddle.com.


size 10 cotton crochet thread-

color 1- 40-50 yards

color 2- 5-10 yards

color 3- 5-10 yards
1.75 mm hook
yarn needle
scissors
 Stitch Abbreviations

beg- beginning
ch(s)- chain(s)
edc- extended double crochet
sc- single crochet
st(s)- stitch(es)
sl st- slip stitch
tr- treble crochet
yo- yarn over

Special Stitches

beg tr cluster- ch 3, keeping last loop of each tr on hook, 2 tr in the same space, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
tr cluster- keeping last loop of each tr on hook, 2 tr in st or space indicated, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

( ) - contains additional information and the amount of blocks, spaces, or stitches you will have at the end of a row or round.

[ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated, or in the stitch or space indicated.

* - repeat the following instructions the amount of times indicated.

Odd numbered rows on the chart are read from right to left and even numbered rows from left to right.

The ch-5 at the end of Rows 1-12 counts as the first edc and ch-2 space of the next row.
With color 1 ch 36 (last 5 chs count as the first edc and ch-2 space on Row 1).

Row 1- edc in 9th ch from hook, [ch 2, sk 2 ch, edc in next ch] 9 times, ch 5, turn. (10 spaces)

Row 2- edc in next edc, * [2 edc in next space, edc in next edc] 3 times, ch 2, edc in next edc, repeat from * 1 more time, ch 2, edc in third ch of next edc, ch 5, turn.  (6 blocks, 4 spaces)

Rows 3-12- Follow each row on the chart, working from right to left on odd numbered rows and from left to right on even numbered rows, ch 5, turn.

Row 13- edc in next edc, [ch 2, edc in next edc] 9 times, do not turn.  (10 spaces)

Border-


Round 1- ch 1, [sc, ch 3, 2 sc] in same space, working along the side (shown in picture 4 in the photo tutorial section) sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 11 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc] in next space, working along the bottom sc in the free loop opposite of the next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in the free loop opposite of the next edc] 8 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 2 sc] in next space, working along the side sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 11 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc] in next space, working along the top sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 8 times, 2 sc in next space, sl st in first sc, fasten off color 1.  (140 sc)

Round 2- join color 2 in next space, beg tr cluster in same space, ch 3, [tr cluster, ch 3] twice in same space, * [sk next 3 sc, tr cluster in next sc, ch 3] 9 times, [tr cluster, ch 3] 3 times in next space, [sk next 3 sc, tr cluster in next sc, ch 3] 7 times * , [tr cluster, ch 3] 3 times in next space, repeat from  * to  * 1 time, sl st to top of first tr cluster, fasten off color 2.  (44 tr clusters, 44 ch-3 spaces)


Round 3- join color 3 to same cluster st, 
 * [ch 4, sl st] twice in same st, ch 1, sl st in next space, ch 1, sl st in next cluster, repeat from  * around, fasten off color 3 and weave in ends.  (88 ch-4 spaces, 88 ch-1 spaces, 176 sl sts)  


Bunny Chart
1 block- 4 edc
1 space- 1 edc, ch 2, 1 edc
2 or more blocks next to each other- each block will have 3 edc plus 1 edc

Carrot Border Chart


Blocking-

It is optional but recommended to block your finished piece. Fill a bowl with water and add some liquid starch if you prefer the doily to be lightly stiffened. Soak the doily and gently press out any excess liquid, being careful not to pull or twist on the stitches. Lay it flat on a blocking mat and pin the doily starting at the corners.  Allow the doily to dry completely before removing the pins.


Photo Tutorials


  1  
Extended double crochet stitch (edc)

Step One- yo, insert hook into st indicated, yo and pull up a loop.  There should be 3 loops on the hook

Step Two- yo and draw through 1 loop on hook.  There should be 3 loops on the hook.

Step Three- yo and draw through 2 loops on hook.  There should be 2 loops remaining.

Step Four- yo and draw through last 2 loops on the hook to complete the extended double crochet stitch.

2
Solid mesh blocks

1 block in between 2 spaces, or at the beginning or end of a row will have 4 dc.
More than 1 block next to each other will have 3 dc each plus 1.  I used 3 blocks as an example pictured below which will have 10 dc.  

3
Rows 1-13 complete

4
Round 1 of the border

ch 1, [sc, ch 3, 2 sc] in same space.

working down the right side, sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 11 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc] in next space. 

working along the bottom sc in the free loop opposite of the next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in the free loop opposite of the next edc] 8 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 2 sc] in next space.

working along the left side sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 11 times, [3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc] in next space.

working along the top sc in next edc, [2 sc in next space, sc in next edc] 8 times, 2 sc in next space, sl st in first sc, fasten off color 1. 

5
Round 1 complete

Congratulations on your finished spring bunny doily! :D  I hope you enjoyed this pattern!

This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna. Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site. You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com. Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. Thank you!

© 2018 Draiguna

Saturday, March 17, 2018

Reagent Pouches


Happy Saint Patrick's Day!  The pattern I am sharing today is for these small reagent pouches.  You can use this pouch to store your magical and special items :)

The materials you will need are size 3 cotton crochet thread and a 3.25 mm (D) hook, a yarn needle, and scissors.  I also used a few jump rings and some chain to attach the charms.  The brand of thread pictured is Aunt Lydias size 3 crochet thread in the colors- bridal white, sage, and copper mist.  

These pouches have 6 sets of cables made up of front post double crochet stitches, and front post treble crochet stitches.  The rest is done in single crochet.  There are instructions for 2 different sizes.  The taller white one measures 4" with a 3" opening at the top.  The green one measures 3" with a 3" opening. 


Instructions are available in 2 different sizes- a 3" or 4" tall pouch.
Size 3 cotton crochet thread
color 1-
3" pouch- 50 yards
4" pouch- 70 yards
color 2 (optional, used on the last round)- 5-10 yards

3.25 mm (D) hook
yarn needle
scissors

Optional Materials-
charms
4 mm and 5 mm jump rings
small amount of chain
jewelcrafting pliers
Stitch Abbreviations

sl st- slip stitch
st- stitch
ch- chain
yo- yarn over
sc- single crochet
dc- double crochet
fpdc- front post double crochet
fptr- front post treble crochet

Pattern Notes

[ ] - work enclosed instructions the amount of times indicated.

( ) - Enclose additional information and the number of stitches you will have at the end of a round.

Rounds 1-7 are worked in a spiral without joining.  To help keep track place a stitch marker in the first or last stitch of each round.

Tip- The repeated rounds 11-14 will always have 24 sc and 24 fpdc or fptr.
4" Pouch-

Round 1- ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, do not join. (6 sc)


Round 2- [2 sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (12 sc)


Round 3- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc] 6 times, do not join. (18 sc)


Round 4- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc] 6 times, do not join. (24 sc)


Round 5- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 6 times, do not join. (30 sc)


Round 6- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc] 6 times, do not join. (36 sc)


Round 7- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc] 6 times, do not join. (42 sc)

Round 8- [2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc] 6 times, sl st in next sc. (48 sc)

Round 9- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, dc in next 2 sc, [sc in next 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc] around, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 dc)

Round 10- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, fpdc around next 2 dc, [sc in next 2 sc, fpdc around next 2 dc] around, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 fpdc)

Round 11- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, sc in next fpdc, fpdc around same fpdc, fpdc around next 3 fpdc, sc in same fpdc, [sc in next 2 sc, sc in next fpdc, fpdc around same fpdc, fpdc around next 3 fpdc, sc in same fpdc] around, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 fpdc)

Round 12- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 sc, sk next 2 fpdc, fptr around next 2 fpdc, fptr around the first skipped fpdc, fptr around the second skipped fpdc (shown in pictures 2 and 3 in the photo tutorial section), [sc in next 4 sc, sk next 2 fpdc, fptr around next 2 fpdc, fptr around the first skipped fpdc, fptr around the second skipped fpdc] around, sc in next sc, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 fptr)

Round 13- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, fpdc around next 2 fptr (shown in pictures 4 and 5 in the photo tutorials section), sc in same fptr, sc in next fptr, fpdc around the same fptr, fpdc around the next fptr, sk next sc, [ sc in next 2 sc, fpdc around next 2 fptr, sc in same fptr, sc in next fptr, fpdc around next 2 fptr, sk next sc] around, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 fpdc)

Round 14-  ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next sc, fpdc around next 2 fpdc, [sc in next 2 sc, fpdc around next 2 fpdc] around, sl st to first sc.  (24 sc, 24 fpdc)

Rounds 15-26- Repeat Rounds 11-14 3 more times.

Round 27- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 fpdc, [sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 fpdc] around, sl st to first sc.  (48 sc)

Round 28- ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 space), [sk next 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2] around, sl st to third ch of first dc.  (16 dc, 16 ch-2 spaces)

Round 29- ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next space, [sc in next dc, 2 sc in next space] around, sl st to first sc.  (48 sc)  If using a second color fasten off and join the new color in the same st.

Round 30- [sl st in next sc] around, fasten off, see picture 6 in the photo tutorials section for finishing instructions.  (48 sl st)

 3" Pouch-

Rounds 1-14- Follow instructions for Larger Pouch.

Rounds 15-22- Repeat Rounds 11-14 2 more times.

Round 23- ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 2 fpdc, [sc in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 fpdc] around, sl st to first sc.  (48 sc)

Round 24- ch 5 (counts as first dc and ch-2 space), [sk next 2 sc, dc in next sc, ch 2] around, sl st to third ch of first dc.  (16 dc, 16 ch-2 spaces)

Round 25- ch 1, sc in same st, 2 sc in next space, [sc in next dc, 2 sc in next space] around, sl st to first sc.  (48 sc)  If using a second color fasten off and join the new color in the same st.

Round 26- [sl st in next sc] around, fasten off, see picture 6 in the photo tutorials section for finishing instructions.   (48 sl st)

Drawstrings, make 2-

ch 100, fasten off.


Attaching the drawstrings

Thread the end of the drawstring onto the yarn needle. Weave the drawstring in the spaces between the dc stitches on Round 28 of the 4" pouch, Round 24 for the 3" pouch.  Stop when you reach the space next to where you started.
Repeat this with the second drawstring, starting on the opposite side of the first drawstring, there should be 8 dc between the two drawstrings. 

Straighten out the ends of both drawstrings so the chain stitches are even. Tie the ends together and trim away the extra thread, leaving about 1/2- 3/4".


Adding charms to the pouch

Attach the 5 mm jump rings to any dc on Round 28 if you made the 4" pouch, Round 24 if you made the 3" pouch. Take some small pieces of the chain and attach a 4 mm jump ring to one end along with a charm and close the ring. Attach another 4 mm jump ring to the other end of the chain and secure it to the ring on the pouch. For the charms in between take a piece of chain and attach a 4 mm jump ring to an end. Secure it to one of the rings on the pouch. Repeat this for the other end. Attach a jump ring to a charm and close it around the center chain.

For my pouches I attached 3 of the 5 mm rings onto the 3 dc stitches next to the drawstring. I used 5 small pieces of chain, 1 attached to each ring and 2 in between.




☘  Photo Tutorials   


☘ 1 ☘
Rounds 1-8-
The next round will start the foundation of the cables.


☘    2    
Stitch placement for the fptr on Round 13
Fptr around the fpdc stitches in this order-
3, 4, 1, 2 as shown in Picture 3.


☘ 3 ☘
Front post treble crochet stitches (fptr) on Round 12
Step One- Skip the first 2 fpdc shown in the above photo, fptr around the third fpdc.

Step Two- Fptr around the fourth fpdc.

Step Three- Fptr around the first skipped fpdc.

Step Four- Fptr around the second skipped fpdc.


☘ 4 ☘
First set of front post double crochet stitches (fpdc) on Round 13
They may be hard to see, they are behind the second set of fptr.

☘ 5 ☘
Making the first 2 front post double crochet stitches (fpdc) on Round 13
Step One- Yo and insert hook from back to front around the first fptr.

Step Two- Yo and draw up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.

Step Three- The second fptr may be hard to see. It is hiding behind the third and fourth fptr. You can pull them a little to the side to see the stitch better.

Step Four- yo and insert hook from back to front around the second fptr, yo and draw up a loop, [yo and draw though 2 loops on hook] twice.

☘ 6 ☘
Finishing the last round-
Step One- With the end just fastened off, thread the yarn needle and insert behind the 2 bars of the first sl st and pull through.

Step Two- Insert into the center of the last sl st made.

Step Three- Pull through to the back.

Step Four- Weave in the end.

I hope that you enjoyed this pattern :D  Have a wonderful day!


This pattern is by Julia Hart of Draiguna.  Feel free to link to this pattern but do not reprint it on your site.  You can sell items made from this pattern. Please credit me as the designer, Julia Hart of Draiguna, link to my etsy shop- draiguna.etsy.com, or to my blog- www.draiguna.com.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own, sell, or distribute it. Thank you!
© 2018 Draiguna